Archive for the ‘Energy Efficiency’ category

Hydronic Radiant Heat is Beautiful Heat

February 6th, 2012

Installed hydronic radiant heating tubing. (Photo courtesy of Eileen Joy)

When I walk into a home with hydronic radiant heat on a freezing cold day I feel this warm sense of comfort as soon as I take my boots off and my sock feet touch the warmed floor. The warmth rising from beneath the floor warms my toes and spreads all the way up to my fingers and even to my ears. It is a clean, quiet heat that is also highly energy efficient. I haven’t written about radiant heat before for a few reasons: one is that I’ve heard that it is fairly expensive to install, another is that I’ve never been able to find out just how energy efficient it is versus other heating systems. However, when I was contacted by a program called Beautiful Heat, which is aims to spread the word about the benefits of radiant heat,  it gave me the push I needed to do some further investigation. I contacted a few contractors regarding my cost and efficiency questions and the results are below.

What is Hydronic Radiant Heat?: Water is heated in a boiler and then circulated through tubes laid out under flooring and/or walls, heating the floors or walls themselves and not the air. Radiant heating systems offer flexibility in heating as it can be installed very specifically. For instance, John Bell installed radiant heating tubes in front of his windows for about two feet to help moderate any cold coming through the windows in the winter. Radiant heat is a flexible heating system in that it can be limited to certain areas of the home such as mudrooms, washrooms, basements and the temperature can be regulated for each room. It can also be installed in conjunction with other heating systems (rads and/or forced air).

Radiant heat has several advantages over forced air systems. It warms the floor or walls instead of the air making rooms more comfortable to be in. It can be used with an already installed boiler system assuming the current boiler has excess capacity and building envelope changes have been taken into account. It’s a very quiet system. Duct work is only needed for other systems such as a central vac and an energy or heat recovery ventilator. These tubes are much smaller than a forced air system so no large forced air duct work is necessary. Regarding cooling system, a separate system is required, such as a mini-split ductless air conditioning system.

Because heat rises, it’s best to install a radiant heating system on the lowest level or level of the home. It works under any flooring option including wood and tile.

Installed tubing for radiant heat. (Photo courtesy of Eileen Joy)

Cost: According to John Mulder of Mulder Heating Ltd, in Coalhurst, Alberta, if you’re installing a radiant heat system, you should expect to pay about 3-4 times the price of a forced air system because, generally, boilers are more expensive than forced air systems. There is also the cost of laying of the tubes and sub-floor preparation such as a skim coat if the tubes are laid under concrete. It’s difficult to estimate a true cost of installing the system because it depends on so many factors from how well insulated the space is or will be to how many square feet the final install will be. If you’re doing a substantial renovation and insulating the basement floor, radiant heat is a great option for basement living spaces.

Again regarding cost, Rolf Baumann of RGB Group notes that most people don’t include water heating as part of their heating cost calculations but they should — and in the case of a boiler, it serves both functions. Rolf notes that generally separate hot water heaters’ efficiency actually dips from 66% efficiency to 50% after only three years of use and stays at that level for the rest of its working life, whereas that doesn’t happen with a boiler system.

Despite its price premium, radiant heat is one of the most popular heating systems in Europe. According to Rolf Baumann,

Radiant heating is used all over Europe  because it is an efficient system and economically less to run. The big difference is that a home in Europe is built to last 150-500 years with 3 generations of families living in them and 75 year mortgages. It does not matter that it costs 3-4 times as you are getting efficiency (less gas consumption to run it and gas is very expensive there) per year and you’re going to live there cradle to grave.

I would also add that because the cost of energy is so much more expensive in Europe versus North America, installing a boiler system that runs more efficiently than other options makes a lot of sense as the savings in the running costs could more than make up for the initial equipment investment in a much shorter time frame.

Energy Efficiency: One of the big questions that always comes up is the specific energy efficiency and savings from installing a radiant heat unit. John Mulder notes that

…radiant heat is more efficient but the number is intangible. Radiant heat is held in the materials of the home rather than the actual air, greatly reducing the heat loss through infiltration (air leakage) and ventilation. I`ve heard people say too, that warm feet make a warm body so with contact to warm materials, people have found that they can comfortably move their thermostat down several degrees.

 

The bottom line is, radiant heat is more energy efficient than most forced air units, more comfortable, quieter and it helps preserve indoor air quality. If you can take the long-term view regarding the cost of the installation it’s a very practical choice because running costs are lower than with other systems, and it can make previously unused spaces (the basement), more comfortable.

To find a hydronic radiant heat installer near you, visit the Beautiful Heat website, it provides a list of manufacturers, dealers and installers of hydronic radiant heat systems as well as more information about radiant heat and its benefits.

 

 

 

Optimized with InboundWriter

Improving Your Home’s Energy Efficiency: The Financial Case

January 26th, 2012

When I was speaking with John Bell about the energy efficiency upgrades he made to his home, he didn’t even flinch when he told me he spent an additional $28,000 for the upgrades. That amount included solar panels, a more efficient furnace than what the building code calls for, a gray water system, a solar-operated heating unit, and extra, better quality insulation than what might be used in a standard renovation. He said the upgrades were a no-brainer because with energy prices constantly rising, the energy and water upgrades insulate him from price increases far better than if he’d just renovated to the Ontario Building Code.

It got me to thinking that one of the best ways to appeal to people about why increasing a home’s energy efficiency is important is through their wallet. When I asked John who I should talk to about the financial case for increasing a home’s energy efficiency, he pointed me in the direction of Craig Backman, Chairman of the Sustainable Housing Foundation. The Foundation’s mandate is to convert as many of the existing Canadian home stock to the most energy efficient dwellings as possible, and to help today’s builders learn green building techniques. But the foundation also help builders learn how to better communicate those green building features to potential customers. Yes, green building can cost more upfront, but rising energy prices mean that the payback gap is continually narrowing.

Craig told me that when energy prices were cheap the only people who were investing in energy efficiency were true environmentalists — the price premiums versus payback were too significant for most consumers to buy in to. However, with the recent and real trend in rising energy prices, both globally and at home, making the case for energy efficiency is easier. Craig points to a Scotiabank report on the Sustainable Housing Foundation’s website that makes the case for homeowners spending their money on energy upgrades. The report notes:

High energy costs have dampened spending on other ‘less discretionary’ purchases. Energy demand is inelastic, at least in the short-term, due to the limited ability of households to substantially alter their driving patterns and other daily activities. Household expenditures on energy totaled roughly $60 billion in 2010, or about $4,500 per household. We estimate that higher energy costs will add about $6 billion to this bill in 2011 — spending dollars that could otherwise have been allocated to other retail purchases, saved or used to pay down debt.

Renovating your home using green building principals, particularly with respect to energy efficiency, will save you money down the road, especially as energy prices rise.  Home heating oil and gasoline prices have increased approximately 40% in the last two years and are only predicted to continue their upward trend. Currently, energy expenses range between 6-7% of total household expenditures, and will likely take up a larger share of a household’s total expenditures if the inflation rate remains lower than the rise in energy prices.

Craig notes that energy efficient renovations don’t have to be dramatic to make a difference. Changing light bulbs from incandescents to CFLs and LEDs, caulking around leaky windows and doors, adding insulation in the attic are all easy and inexpensive changes that will have lasting effects over time. The next time you need appliances look for Energy Star certified ones. Air conditioners and furnaces also have Energy Star certified models.

If your home is really drafty and you’re thinking of doing a major energy upgrade, before you do anything call in an energy auditor. An energy auditor will identify what needs to be done first (ie., furnace or insulation) and where you can get the biggest bang for your buck.

For more information on the Sustainable Housing Foundation and its work in green building visit the website: http://www.sustainablehousingfoundation.com.

Scotiabank’s ecoliving website has some great information and tips on financing your next green renovation.

Optimized with InboundWriter

SageGlass — Energy Efficiency Using Tinted Dynamic Glass

January 19th, 2012

For architects and builders concerned with a building’s energy efficiency, windows have always been a double-edged sword. On the one hand they offer views, natural light, and heat in the winter when the sun is shining. On the other hand, they’re holes in the building’s envelope allowing for heat transfer in the wrong direction and glare when the sun’s rays are low. In south-facing rooms in particular it’s always a challenge to offer a comfortable environment, and natural daylight during midday without drawing blinds or having the air conditioner work overtime. One technology that offers a solution but is still relatively new is electrothermal glass, also known as tintable or dynamic glass.

Ball State University -- Untinted glass

 

Ball State University -- Tinted Glass

SageGlass was founded in 1989 but took 14 years of research and development before launching its electrothermal glass product. This glass is able to change its tinting to block or allow the sun to enter a building. If you’ve ever been in a building which is enveloped in glass, you might have had the uncomfortable experience of having the sun beat down on you. It’s worse than being outside because there’s no breeze to combat the heat, and the only way to avoid glare is to use sunglasses, which, if you’re inside, isn’t really a great solution.

Kirksey Architecture, Houston, TX

 

Advantages:  Tintable glass cuts glare and heat during the hottest times of the day and year but also allows the sun to enter during colder times of the year. The advantages are increased energy efficiency for both the heating and cooling system, as well as permitting  natural daylight without the glare which helps plug load. It also means that blinds aren’t needed, except in areas where privacy is a concern.  A study of increased energy consumption saw that windows with SageGlass increased a building’s energy efficiency  21% over ASHRAE baseline building requirements. Heating and cooling systems will work better, particularly on extremely hot days.

Applications: This glass has been installed in several commercial and institutional building projects but also has applications in high-end residential setting. The advantage of tintable glass is that it permits views while preventing excess heat and glare.  The glass can be specified by any window company, currently for residential applications, Marvin Windows and Doors uses this glass.

Regarding overall energy efficiency of the glass, not only does it allow or prevent radiant heat (heat from the sun) passing through, but it is also treated with a low-emissivity coating to increase the glass’s thermal rating. SageGlass works very closely with all window manufacturers using its glass to make sure it is installed into the window frames correctly. In residential applications, it has been combined with both double and triple glazed windows.

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient: One of the measurements of energy efficient windows is the solar heat gain coefficient. It is the amount of heat that passes through a window from the sun’s rays and is measured on a scaled from 0-1. The average low-e double glazed window has a solar heat gain coefficient of .47, meaning that it lets in 47% of the sun’s heat that is hitting the window. A window coated with SageGlass has a variable solar heat gain coefficient that ranges between 0.09 and 0.49. When the window is fully tinted, only 9% of the sun’s heat gets through. The solar heat gain coefficient of regular glass is static.

Technology: The technology SageGlass developed involves five layers of nano-ceramic coatings. When a small current of electricity is applied to the glass lithium ions and electrons transfer from one layer to another causing the glass to darken. It can be controlled manually or built into a building automation system. In case you’re wondering about whether the electricity applied offsets the gains in energy efficiency, the voltage applied is very small and the benefits of the tinted glass far outweigh the costs.

When used in residential applications, regarding the electrical requirements, the same person installing your internet cables is the one specified for installing this glass.

Cost: While the company couldn’t give a cost for this glass because it depends on so many factors, it is definitely a product intended for high-end residential applications. However, I can see plenty of residential applications for this glass — especially in Toronto where there is a significant number of high-end condos being constructed. Most of these condos are made out of glass, and the upper floors are all about the views. This glass would be a perfect application.

For more information on SageGlass and electrothermal glass, visit http://sageglass.com/

 

 

 

Optimized with InboundWriter

Earthquake — LEED Platinum Home revisited — A tour with Rolf Baumann of RGB Group

December 9th, 2011

3rd Street Duplex, The Glebe, Ottawa, ON

A few weeks ago, while in Ottawa, I contacted Rolf Baumann, owner of RGB Group and builder of the first Earthquake resiliant/LEED Platinum duplex in Canada. He took me on a tour of the building and explained what he was doing to attain the LEED Canada Platinum for Homes certification.  To achieve Platinum level, the highest level of LEED for Homes Canada awarded, a house must earn between 90 and 136 points in up to 9 categories. LEED for Homes is a designation used for residential dwellings to demonstrate building or renovating with environmental benefits. LEED stands for “Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design” and takes into account all aspects of building a home from minimizing construction waste, protecting the development site, using local Gand recycled materials and indoor air quality. By contrast, EnergyStar certified homes, are only concerned with how energy-efficient the finished home is.There is no account for construction waste, type of materials used, site location, indoor air quality, etc.).

So, when a builder decides to build a LEED Home, he has a lot of factors to consider. Rolf, however, has already built to LEED Platinum. His Montauk Townhouse Complex (which RGB Group owns and operates) was certified LEED Platinum and is now fully occupied.

When Rolf bought the 3rd Street property, he already had two of the main criteria delivered: “Location and Linkages” and “Sustainable Sites.”  The house is situated fifty feet from Bank St. in the heart of The Glebe in Ottawa.  It’s a great neighbourhood with access to shops and services, restaurants, tons of coffee shops (Bridgehead is my personal favourite), schools, and public transportation to downtown. Further, regarding sustainable sites, he was building where a single-family dwelling was originally built in the late 1800s, and redeveloping the property into a multi-family dwelling. If, like me, you’re wondering if the previous house was salvageable, it wasn’t. It had been an estate sale, and, as Rolf discovered after purchase, it was still running on a septic system — even after all the sewers had been redone by the city a few years ago! The basement had been dirt, and the wood had rotted beyond repair. So, down it came — but not before Rolf sent out word to all his trades that the house was coming down. The plumber came and ripped out the copper plumbing, the electrician took the copper wiring, architectural salvage shops took the millwork. In fact, by the time the demolition company came, there was so little left to take away, they used half the number of haulages originally estimated.

Steel Framing by Bailey Metal Products

 

Electric Start Gas Fireplace -- no pilot light

Energy and Atmosphere: The biggest area for scoring LEED points is in energy efficiency, with a total of 38 points possible. This category encompasses both the building envelope as well as the HVAC system used. Using steel-framed construction gives the home a wider interior than the cinder block alternative. Because the house sits on a 25 foot wide property, the fire code plays a big part in the construction. Building with a steel frame allows for an extra two feet of interior space, allowing 19 ft of interior space instead of 17. Further, while the steel frame consists of 80% recycled steel, it can also be recycled at end of life. Rolf used Baily Metal Products out of Toronto for the frame.  The walls are insulated to R25, using Roxul rigid mineral wool insulation (R13) used externally, and CertainTEED batt insulation (R12) used inside.

To ensure his building envelope is as tight as it can possibly get, Rolf hired Ross Elliot of Homesol as his energy auditor and LEED for Homes rater. Rolf says that when it comes time to check to make sure the building is air tight, Ross Elliot and the insulation installer are both present. As Ross finds leaks, the insulation contractor can either immediately fix the problem, or at least make a note of it and fix later if it needs more attention. Having both the energy auditor and insulation contractor present means that no holes will be missed. Doing an energy audit before the drywall goes up is one of the most essential parts of creating a tight building envelope.

Lifebreath Clean Air Furnace

Each unit has its own HVAC system that is controllable by the tenant. The LifeBreath Clean Air Furnaces were installed by Boon Plumbing. The HVAC system consists of a boiler that is 98% efficient combined with a fancoil ducted system, so it’s a combined hydronic heating, ducted system.

Doors from Lambden Window and Door

Window from Lambden window and Door

Windows and doors come from Lambden Window and Door, a local Ottawa company. The windows are good quality, aluminum-clad, where Rolf says the seal between the glass and the frame is the key to a good window product. Further, the windows are double-glazed and treated with UVA/B coating to prevent sunlight from getting in in the summer. Rolf notes that heating bills are almost nothing compared to air-conditioning bills, so the more you can do to curb air conditioning use, the better. Rolf estimates that each unit’s heating and hot water bills should come in around $50/month.

Appliances and Lighting: One of the surprising features of the home is the fairly extensive use of LED lights. Rolf is using a local company, DelphiTech, to provide all the LED lights. I say “surprising,” because as the building owner, he is not responsible for his tenants’ electric bills, but they will certainly benefit from his investment in these lights and the energy-efficient appliances he’s installing. The LED light fixtures he’s using are manufactured in Ontario, and use either 1W or 1.5W but have the equivalent output of a 50Watt or 75Watt incandescent bulb respectively. All appliances (not installed yet), will be EnergyStar rated and Rolf is planning on installing  induction cooktops in both units. All appliances are sourced through Universal Appliances.

 Water Efficiency: Another area to earn points in LEED certification is through water efficiency. In this case Rolf is installing Caroma dual flush 4 litre toilets. One of the key differences between Caroma and other toilets is the diameter of the drainage hole. In most toilets the drainage hole is 2.8″, but in a Caroma toilet, the diameter is 4″. In other words, it NEVER clogs. The faucets are from Delta, one of the leading companies in low-flow water fixtures. The bathtubs come from MAAX, a Montreal-based company. Instead of using standard 60″ tubs,MAAX makes a smaller 54″ tub that limits the amount of water used. Boon Plumbing supplied all the fixtures.

Indoor Air Quality: One area that is receiving more attention lately is the build-up of toxic chemicals in our homes due to the off-gassing of chemicals from materials used in new home construction, furniture, paints and even household cleaners.  In addition to paint, building materials include caulking, adhesives, polyurethanes, insulation (many kinds contain ureaformaldehyde), cabinetry and millwork, etc. contain many toxic gaseous chemicals that can off-gas for years. Rolf uses zero or low-VOC materials during construction, then airs out the homes before tenants move in. Once occupied, The LifeBreath clean air furnace contains a HEPA filter to continuously clean indoor air.

Paint: Rolf has used Dulux Diamond Interior Paint on past projects and is sold on its performance. When applied in white, as it is in all of his units, it is a low-VOC paint (less than 10 grams/litre of volatile organic compounds). But maybe most surprisingly, it has a lifespan of 30 years. Because it is a ceramic-based acrylic paint, it is completely scrubbable, even the flat version.

Materials and Resources: Rolf sources materials as locally as possible. For example, both rigid and batt insulation, and the steel-frame, come from Toronto; Windows and LED lighting are from the Ottawa area, flooring was milled in Haliburton. The stainless steel kitchen sinks are Novanni (north of Toronto), and bathtubs are from Montreal.

 

For more information on the RGB Group, visit the RGB Group website.

 

Rosedale House Revisited

November 18th, 2011

 

Rosedale House Renovated

During GreenBuild 2011, there was a tour of three green houses offered, so of course I had to go on it! We saw three homes all in different stages of construction. The last house we saw was none other than The Rosedale House which I covered in July, 2010 during renovation.  Terrell Wong and her husband Lindsay are the homeowners, but Terrell also happens to be an award-winning architect and the current president of Passive Buildings Canada so she knows what she’s doing when it comes to green renovations. Terrell took a classic Rosedale home with no insulation and turned it into, well, a classic Rosedale home with lots of insulation. She didn’t enlarge the footprint, she kept as much of the original woodwork and trim as possible (virtually all of it), sanded floors instead of replacing, and even kept the kitchen cabinets, but sent them out for restaining. The house was stripped back to the brick bones and insulated with Heatlok Sprayfoam insulation with an additional layer of cellulose in the attic. Because Terrell wanted to avoid as much thermal bridging as possible, nothing was allowed to break the thermal envelope that wasn’t absolutely necessary. The electrician might have cursed her initially, but complied with her request, so electrical outlets are located in the floor and inside walls only.

The end result is that the Wongs spent about $50,000 in thermal renovations (including insulation, boiler, energy recovery ventilator, hot water tank and German-made passivehouse certified windows. While that may seem like a lot, consider that the energy (heat and electricity) bills pre-renovation came in at about $1000/month or $12,000 annually. Now the energy bills for heat and plug load (no gas is used for any heating or appliances) come in at around $200/month or between $2000-$2500 per year.

As Terrell pointed out on the tour, it is easier to see the kind of payback they did on their house because they were basically starting from zero — as in zero insulation, inefficient oil furnace, minimal electrical upgrades. Houses that are already insulated, even if they were insulated 20 years ago, wouldn’t see the same type of financial improvement because they are starting from a higher, more insulated level. As always, however, the first place to start when you’re considering doing any building envelope and HVAC improvements is with an Energy Audit. Using an approved energy auditor can help you save money on any upgrades you make, and also direct you to making the right investments first. ie., insulation, weather-stripping and caulking before a new furnace. See the Government of Canada’s EcoAction program for more information.
Here are a few pictures of the renovated house.

Kitchen:

kitchen -- original cabinets, restained, marble tile backsplash

 

Kitchen

Breakfast Room with German Passive House certified Windows

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Office:

Office

Office

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Living Room:

Living Room -- Limestone plaster walls, passive house certified glass door

Old postcards from around the world salvaged from basement and framed.

Old postcards from around the world salvaged from basement and framed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Master Bedroom and Ensuite Washroom:

Master Bedroom with Ensuite in background

Master Bedroom with Built-in closet and ceiling fan

Master Bathroom with Grohe Water-saving fixtures

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basement:

Super insulated hot water tank

Energy Recovery Ventilator

Ministar Boiler

Zerofootprint: Energy Efficiency through Software, Architectural Design and Human Behaviour

November 14th, 2011

Last week I had the opportunity to sit down with Ron Dembo, CEO of Zerofootprint. We talked about the three different areas his company is working on right now and all are about achieving the same goal: reducing energy consumption, whether it’s through plug load, adding insulation or by altering human behaviour. Furthermore, Ron and Zerofootprint believe in benchmarking as a starting point. If this sounds at all familiar, then, hooray! you’ve been reading my blog, because I too in a firm believer of knowing where you’re starting from in order to develop a reduction strategy. There was so much to discuss, and Zerofootprint is involved in so many different projects that I separated the information into three different articles.

 

Finally, Zerofootprint works with organizations such as Earth Hour and provides one minute carbon and water personal calculators to help you find out how you stack up to the average Canadian. The calculators give you a very rough idea of how much CO2 emissions you are responsible for due to your transportation, diet, travel and home. I input my data and am sorry to learn that I am responsible for the emission of 10 tons/year of CO2 — half of which are due to the number of kilometers I put on our minivan. In fact when I switched my answer from my minivan to hybrid, my emissions dropped to 5.3 tons/year. Fortunately I fared much better in water consumption and came in at 85,000 litres per year, about 25% less than the Canadian average, but still not something I’d brag about. If you’re serious about benchmarking your carbon footprint, Zerofootprint offers a more in-depth carbon calculator, but you need access to your utility bills and should block out at least half an hour to fill out the forms. It’s worth it if you really want to know where you stand.

 

Zerofootprint challenges students to reduce their school’s electricity use

November 14th, 2011

Zerofootprint Challenge Software: Zerofootprint has developed sophisticated software to help clients figure out where they are starting from (benchmark) and what they need to do to reduce their energy consumption. Take, for example, the Halton Catholic District School Board. This organization consists of 48 schools consuming large amounts of energy and water. Through the software provided by Zerofootprint, anyone can see which schools are the most efficient and which are the least in the areas of electricity, heating, and water. It also provides a way for the schools to compete against each other to see which school can improve its energy efficiency. Ron told me that the schools have enrolled their students into the challenge and one example he gave me was that when students find out that their school’s electricity consumption is nearing its daily consumption target, they will turn off non-essential lights and computers. He said that behaviour is changing as a result: the kids are playing board games at free time instead of hovering around the computer. And, perhaps most importantly, there is a sense of ownership and accomplishment when the students participate in this challenge. They see the results of their efforts and can connect human behaviour directly with electricity consumption.  As Ron pointed out to me, efficiency efforts are as much about redirecting their budget as it is about environmental awareness; the less money schools spend on heating and electricity, the more money they have available to put into educational activities and after school programs.

Zero Footprint’s Carbon Cube

Another teaching tool Zerofootprint has developed is the carbon cube. It is a cube measuring 6″x6″x6″ and represents 10g of CO2. There is a description on the box of what 10g of carbon is the equivalent to:

  • driving a gas guzzler 25 meters
  • making 1 cup of hot tea
  • having the lights on in your classroom for 1 minute
Teachers can demonstrate to their students just how much CO2 is emitted through specific actions as represented by these cubes.

The Zerofootprint Re-skinning Awards: Energy Efficiency for Towers

November 14th, 2011
Zerofootprint established a contest two years ago that celebrates the re-skinning of buildings as a way to combat energy inefficiency in older buildings. The point of the awards is to highlight projects that have “re-skinned” an existing building and that have accomplished not only increasing a building’s energy efficiency, but also, improved its looks aesthetically. If you’re not familiar with the term “re-skinning”, it refers to adding a layer of insulation to the outside of a building instead of insulating from within. In many cases it also involves creating an air space in between the older building and the new layer, so that the air between the two skins acts as an insulator. The awards seek out examples that are replicable, cost-effective, aesthetically pleasing and improve a building’s energy efficiency.
When the large, leaky apartment and office buildings built in the mid-twentieth century, energy rates and climate change weren’t an issue. Now, however, landlords need to pay attention to rising heating and electricity costs. Re-skinning a building means that occupants can continue to live or work within it while the new shell is being constructed on the outside. Further, any new piping for water or rainwater catchment systems, fiber optics, electrical upgrades, renewable energy systems and other new technologies can be installed between the new shell and the old building without disrupting tenants. The re-skinning award categories are residential, commercial/institutional and industrial and entries are submitted from all over the world. For more information on the awards, visit: reskinningawards.com

An Introduction to Induction Cooktops

October 25th, 2011

The latest in energy efficient stove tops uses induction heating to warm and cook food. Food and liquids are heated significantly faster than with either a traditional electric stove or natural gas. But I’ve always had a few reservations with induction heating — although I’m becoming more convinced of its value all the time. My first reservation is that I hate cleaning a smooth cooktop surface. It seems to take three times as long as a traditional electric surface. We had a smooth cooktop two houses ago, and I cursed every time pasta water or mashed potato water boiled over onto the surface because it would cook right on and take me hours to get off (okay, I might be exaggerating a little). My other reservation is that it’s not gas. I love cooking with gas.

But now I find out that gas is highly inefficient when it comes to heating the pan and food. The majority of the heat is wasted — only 40% of the heat from gas actually makes it to the pan the other 60% ends up heating your kitchen. This is certainly not good in the middle of summer when the last thing you want is to add more heat to your home! With induction cooking 84-94% of the heat being transferred to the food and not to the kitchen, which means your food heats that much faster too. Secondly, cleaning the cooktop isn’t the chore it is with a traditional smooth cooktop because it never gets baked on to the cooktop surface. Because the majority of the heat is transferred directly to the cookware, the surface of the stove never gets more than warm. Therefore, any food that boils over doesn’t cook on to the surface which means cleaning it involves a wipe and that’s about it. It also means it’s a safer surface with young children around.

IKEA has developed a great video on how induction cooking works:

Cookware: Yes, you need to use a certain type of cookware with induction cooktops. Because the induction heating is generated with magnets, only steel cookware will transfer the heat. Amir Girgis, Director of Sales and Marketing at Integrated Appliances explains some of the reservations of induction cooking, as well as the best induction cookware to go with your cooktop.

1. Don’t buy a cheap induction cooktop!!! As we all know you get what you pay for, but with induction, a cheap cooktop means low wattage coils, which will not give you the benefits of the technology…mainly power.

2. People shouldn’t be concerned about the cookware issue. Today, you can find induction compatible cookware almost everywhere…even Walmart. The hum that Deborah refers to really addresses the inefficiency of the cookware. The hum is the audible “waste” of power that the cookware is not absorbing from the induction coil. Usually it is louder at higher power settings. One way to solve this is to research online for cookware with a “Class Induction” rating. This is the standard for induction quality cookware and was created by induction manufacturers in conjunction with cookware manufacturers, so that consumers could get all the power from the coil. It is a European standard which was quickly adopted by the cookware companies because of the success of induction in Europe. For testing purposes, keep a kitchen magnet with you when shopping. If the magnet sticks to the bottom of the pan, then it will work on induction.

3. To make everyone’s life easier…here is my Top “5″ list of induction cookware:
Demeyere – from Belgium. Built specifically for induction. Class Induction rated. Viking cookware is made by them.
All-Clad Stainless Collection – the American standard.
Sitram – France
Bourgeat – France
Mauviel - the standard for copper cookware also makes a line called “Inducinox”…good quality.
All Cast Iron cookware…Le Creuset, Lodge..whatever. If it doesn’t have asmooth bottom go and buy a silicon pad to put underneath to prevent it from scratching the glass.

Amir’s top 3 induction cooktop brands for quality and performance are:

 Cost: Induction cooktops aren’t cheap but they are becoming more widely available. You don’t want to skimp on buying a low-end cooktop, as Amir points out above, because then you won’t be satisfied with the result. Another point to note is that induction cooktops run on 220volts, so make sure your kitchen is wired properly, and take any electrical changes into account when calculating your budget.

For more information on Induction cooktops, contact Amir at Integrated Appliances in Toronto.

Induction cooktops are sold at kitchen and department stores across North America.

Energy Efficiency — Creating and Implementing an Action Plan

September 10th, 2011

Woods auto shut off powerbar

I’ve written many articles on energy efficiency, and read a lot on it as well, where I’ve always gotten frustrated are the uncoordinated tips that are given about improving your home’s energy efficiency. “Buy this super duper auto shut-off plug!” “Install CFLs!” “Replace your windows and doors!” If you’re not taking targeted action, you’re not going to be as efficient as you think you are. You have to know where you use the most electricity before making changes, otherwise you’re not spending wisely, and you won’t see the results you want.

The first three articles in this series on energy efficiency involved discovering how much electricity your household uses, doing a home DIY electricity audit to determine which devices are using the most electricity, and finally, monitoring your family’s behaviour to see how electricity is being used. Now it’s time to synthesize that information and take concrete steps towards lowering your electricity consumption. You’ve done the research, now do the foot work.

Set a target. Let’s say you’ve determined that your family uses 1200 KWH of electricity per month and you want to get that consumption down to 900 KWH/month. Look through your energy audit and any notes on family behaviour regarding electricity you’ve made and decide how easily achievable the goal is (Reducing from 1200 KWH to 900 KWH is a 25% reduction, so it could be a top-lofty goal to start with).

There are four ways to reduce plug load consumption:

  • unplug,
  • use power intermittently,
  • replace items with more efficient models, substitution (ie., ceiling fans for central air),
  • change family behaviour (probably the toughest action to enforce).

Unplug. You know where electricity in your home is being used from your DIY audit. Go after the inexpensive, low hanging fruit first. No, not the light bulbs, unplugging gadgets. Unplugging is a no-brainer. Why is your VCR still plugged in? When was the last time you used it? What about that digital clock and old TV in the spare room you rarely use? What about the coffeemaker? If you don’t use the timer and it has a clock, unplug it. Any cord that comes with a DC converter and feels hot to the touch when it’s plugged in should be unplugged unless in use, particularly cellphone chargers and laptops. Those chargers draw power even when nothing’s attached to them. If you’ve done a meticulous electricity audit, you can see on paper just how much electricity you’ll stop using by unplugging gadgets and just how close to your goal the unplugging will bring you. Not only have you not spent a dime to make changes, you’re now paying less to your utility company too.

Use power intermittently. This means put gadgets on timers, unplug cellphone chargers when something’s finished charging. Learn how to program and use your thermostat for both winter and summer. The earliest models were a pain to program, but the current models walk you through programming fairly easily. Schedule 15 minutes one weekend morning and program your thermostat to meet your family’s needs.

Add auto-shut off bars to your gaming stations, computer stations, and anything else that uses a lot of phantom power, such as cell phone chargers. You can plug several cords into one unit, so you will likely only need two or three cords, maybe you even have some already that you bought with good intentions, but just never got around to using properly.

Look at your DIY Audit, figure out how many power cords you’ll need, then program the devices to be on for only a few hours a day (why turn on a gaming station before 4 in the afternoon, or even, during the week if your kids aren’t allowed to game during the week?).

If you use your outdoor lighting every night, all night, you might want to consider putting it on timers or sensors so that it only goes on when someone approaches. We only use our outdoor lights when we’re expecting company (or the pizza delivery guy), because there’s a street light outside our home that does the job.

Go to saveONenergy for money-saving coupons on many energy efficient products including light bulbs, sensors and auto shut-off timers. Note: coupons are valid in Ontario only.

Calculate how much electricity you’d save if items were completely off for 18 hours per day and see how close you’re getting to your target.

Replace items with more efficient models. This is the area where some investment is involved, so you might want to develop a budget and see how much you’re prepared to do and when.

Lighting. In our house lighting counts for up to 20% of our over all electricity consumption, so it’s worthwhile examining where changes can be made to have an impact on overall efficiency. However, I have a confession to make: I hate CFL bulbs. I don’t like the light they cast or how long it takes for them to warm up. They don’t last as long as they’re touted to because (and no one ever tells you this) the more often you turn them on and off, the shorter their lifespan; they’ve got mercury in them, and you just know that some people are not going to dispose of them responsibly so some are likely ending up in landfill. It’s hard to find dimmable CFLs, and finally, I don’t like their shape because they don’t fit with some of my lamps. Harrumph. But I still use them. Not everywhere, just where I have a tendency to have lights on all the time, like in my office, the rec. room, and the kitchen.

Before changing all your light bulbs to CFLs and LEDs think about what really needs changing. Don’t bother replacing bulbs that are rarely used, ie., basement or hall closets, any other rooms/lamps where lights are rarely turned on. It’s not worth the money, and you won’t be saving enough electricity to make a difference. The next time those burn out, replace it with something more efficient. In the mean time focus on the rooms where lights are on the most often. In our house it’s the kitchen, the office and the rec. room. They all contain CFLs (even though I hate them). Not only will you see a significant drop in electricity consumption, but in the summer they generate less heat relieving your air conditioner of some stress too. Of course the corollary of that is that they generate less heat in the winter, so you might be increasing your heating bill slightly.

I like LED bulbs. They’re dimmable, they’re better looking, the light they cast is crisp. Plus, they don’t have any mercury in them. Because they’re still not cost effective for short-term decisions, it’s best to replace lights where they’re used the majority of the time. Buying LEDs, however, isn’t as simple as going into Home Depot and picking up a few, so I’ve written an article on how to buy LED lights. Invest in good quality ones and they will last the 75,000 to 100,000 hours they say they will.

Appliances. The next time you need new appliances, look for the most efficient Energy Star appliances you can afford. Here’s the thing about Energy Star, in order to be certified, an appliance needs to be at least 20% more efficient than its non-Energy Star counterpart. But there are many, many brands that go much farther beyond the 20% more efficient. Read labels and Energuide information that’s tacked on the front of all models and compare to the brand beside it. European models are so much more efficient than most North American models it’s not even funny — but they’re also considerably more expensive and may be hard or expensive to repair if anything goes wrong. Buy new appliances when you need them, and figure out which one is going to make the biggest dent in your electricity bill (most likely the fridge and the washer).

Note that central air conditioners and furnaces are also Energy Star rated, as are new homes, but not ovens or dryers. If you know how much energy your current appliances use, you can figure out how much electricity a new model is going to save you.

Ceiling fans: There are Energy Star rated ceiling fans too, although using ceiling fans throughout the house will permit you to set your central air conditioner at a higher temperature, or do without it altogether. Ceiling fans consume, on average, about 60 Watts of electricity, versus a central air conditioning unit which uses approximately 3500 Watts (depending on the size, year made, efficiency, etc.).

Change Family Behaviour. If you’ve been watching your family’s and your own behaviour, you’ll have noticed when they leave lights/computers/gaming stations on, the fridge door open, chargers plugged in, etc.  Controlling your own behaviour is the easiest and maybe the best way to start is by improving your own habits. Can you line dry some of your clothes more often? Have you set up a centralized cellphone charging station where it’s easy to unplug at the end of a charging session? Have you got yourself into the habit of turning lights and computers off every time you leave the room?

Regarding the rest of your family, doing a few calculations to see how much it costs every time these little actions occur may help, especially if there’s a way to incentivize them to change. If, after a year of behaviour change you saved enough money to treat yourselves to your family’s favourite restaurant, or something even bigger, maybe that would help. Whatever motivates them to think about conserving, you should try. Maybe they can help you brainstorm ideas, if kids take a stake in the decisions, they are more likely to follow through — with lots of reminders, coaching, and encouragement.

Review and compare. Now that you’ve taken steps to reduce your electricity, review and compare your results and see how you’re doing versus your original target goals. There are a few ways to do this: The first is to wait until you get your next electric bill and see what your power usage from the previous year was. If you want instant gratification, and you have a smart meter, and you live in a service area, sign up for Lowfoot.com. Not only does the service send you your electricity usage daily, it starts you off with an automatic 10% reduction target. Every time you use less electricity, you receive a cash deposit in your Paypal account at the end of the month. If you don’t have a smart meter hooked up to your home yet, have a look at the Power Cost monitor. This company has just teamed up with Plot Watt to offer even those homes without smart meters the ability to track and identify accurately, the electricity consumers in the home.

Get Adobe Flash playerPlugin by wpburn.com wordpress themes