Urban Seedlings — Raised Bed Gardening in Your Own Backyard

April 23rd, 2013 by Cathy Rust No comments »

A friend of mine told me about this great new company, Urban Seedling. The company, started three years ago by husband and wife team Tereska Gesing and Shawn Manning, specializes in planting raised bed organic vegetable gardens in people’s backyards. Imagine growing your own organic vegetables, available for your consumption for pretty much most of the three growing seasons.

Tereska, Shawn and their children, Danika and Luka

Tereska, Shawn and their children, Danika and Luka

In addition to their core business of building and planting raised bed gardens, Urban Seedlings also offers a variety of seasonal workshops.  The workshop I attended, given by Tereska, took away the mystery I’ve always considered gardening to be (despite the fact that I have a B.Sc. in Biology and technically know how everything is supposed to work). The even better news is, if you are a novice, but are determined to grow your own vegetables, they’ve got a crew of gardeners available to you for support throughout the growing season.

In fact, Urban Seedling offers several levels of service from full service where, they build, set up, and plant your garden in spring, summer and fall, to medium service where they can set it up for you in the spring, and put it to bed in winter.  For the DIYers in the crowd, the workshops are for you. They will teach you how to build your own raised beds and plant your vegetables, even if you happen to live in a condo and only have a balcony.

I had several questions about raised bed gardening, all of which were answered during the workshop:

Why raised bed gardening?: There are several advantages to raised bed gardening, but drainage is probably key. By building a bed above the earth, proper drainage is ensured. Further, by filling in your own mix of earth, compost, peat moss and vermiculite, you can ensure that you have the best soil mix that will promote maximum growth.

The raised bed: We were shown how to construct and plant a 10′x3′ bed. Using cotton twine or pieces of wood, the bed is divided into 30 1′x1′ squares, with each square dedicated to one vegetable — you can, however, plant as many squares of the same vegetable as you want.  The exception is squash: it needs a large area, so when it comes time to plant it, four squares are taken up and the seeds are planted at the intersection of the four squares. In addition to the bed itself, it’s important to provide a trellis at the long, preferably, north, end of the bed  – away from shadow casting plants. It’s also a good idea to erect a short fence that will keep squirrels and other animals out of the garden. Tereska noted that if you don’t put the fence in soon enough, and the animals in the area have tasted your yummy vegetables once they’ve sprouted, there is next to no way to prevent them from getting through. So, put the fence up as soon as you’ve planted your spring seedlings.

When are the vegetables planted?: There are three plantings during the growing season, assuming your first planting is no later than the last week in April. Admittedly the weather this year has been a little less cooperative than last year, when they were able to start planting the first week of April.

By planting new vegetables three times a season, you not only increase the variety of foods available, but also, you can maximize the number of vegetables one bed can offer. For example, peas,  spinach, kale, lettuce, arugula (roquette), and broccoli can all be planted in the spring. A few of those, such as kale and arugula will also continue to grow all season long, providing you with fresh, flavourful veggies throughout the growing season. Lettuce and peas, however, are replaced with summer plants because peas stop or slow production with the hot weather and lettuce gets bitter.

By late May, to the latest, mid-June, summer and a few fall vegetables are planted. Tomatoes, cucumbers, and other climbing vegetables are planted in the last row so they can climb up the trellis. Other vegetables are introduced such as peppers, squash and beans.

In late August, the (almost) last planting is completed: new lettuce, spinach, beets and carrots are planted. In November, the beds are prepared for winter, but it’s also the time when garlic is planted.

Seedlings started early in the season inside the warehouse. They'll go to the greenhouse next.

Seedlings started early in the season inside the warehouse. They’ll go to the greenhouse next.

 Seedling Placement: Knowing where to place your vegetable seeds or seedlings is important. Tereska suggested that if there is no way to access your raised bed from behind, it’s best to keep it to a 3×10 size. According to one of the group members, who is a client of Urban Seedlings, a 3×10 bed produces plenty of vegetables. Climbers such as peas, tomatoes and cucumbers need to be planted at the back near the trellis, the middle rows tend to be saved for the plants such as kale and arugula that stay the full season, and the front row is dedicated to changing plants.

In the spring as well, Tereska pointed out that it’s important to plant tallest to shortest so the tall plants don’t block the shorter plants’ sunlight. By summer, however, they’re all tall, so it doesn’t matter as much.

How much does it cost?: prices vary by service, from full scale to DIY workshops for $20 so you can take matters into your own hands. See their price list for specifics.

Tereska also offered us a few words of advice about the garden in general:

1. The place where you are planting your raised bed must receive at least 6 hours of full sun per day.

2. You need to check on your garden every day. This is important for a few reasons: one, because as it grows you’ll be able to tell how the garden is progressing and whether it’s healthy or if pests have discovered your veggies. Weeds need to be pulled daily and squares need thinning once seedlings have sprouted. One of the advantages of raised beds is that there tend to be fewer weeds in them.

3. Planting a bee-friendly flower and herb garden close by helps encourage pollination and vegetable production.

4. Your garden needs to be watered every day, so if you’re planning on going on vacation, arrange for a neighbour or Urban Seedling to come in and tend it for you.

You can find out more about Urban Seedling’s products and services by visiting their website. One of the things I really appreciated was that their catalogue of seeds has been put together specifically for the Island of Montreal’s climate.

You can also visit them at their new location in Ville Émard, where they’ve set up a greenhouse and have seedlings for sale as well as everything else you need to make your own vegetable garden.

Greenhouse filled with seedlings

Greenhouse filled with seedlings

 

 

 

 

 

Outdoor Spring Cleaning Checklist

April 17th, 2013 by Cathy Rust 3 comments »
Carson Arthur, Landscape Designer

Carson Arthur, Landscape Designer

Carson Arthur, Landscape designer and TV personality writes about how to tackle your outdoor spring clean-up. Carson sits very much in the green camp and encourages the use of non-toxic products and conserving water in our outdoor activities.  Thanks for you contribution Carson!

When the warm weather arrives, every homeowner has an inventory of outside chores:  cutting the lawn, weeding the garden, washing windows and cleaning the eaves are at the top of every list, including mine.   This year however, I’m adding some new ‘must-do’ items to make the outdoors more enjoyable.

  1. Top dress the lawn.  I’m taking top-dressing a step further and reseeding my entire lawn this spring!  Every July when the hot weather hits, I have yellow patches in my grass.  I’ve been told slugs or hot dry weather are the culprits.  The truth is…most of our lawns are Kentucky Blue Grass which naturally goes dormant in the heat and but also needs a lot of water.  By moving Canadians away from the  ‘all consuming’ Kentucky Blue grass and into the rye grasses, we will see less water consumption but also less pesticides and fertilizers. Check out this new seed which I am a fan and spokesman for. www.rtfwatersavercanada.com I will add this grass seed, a rye fescue, because it stays green all season long and uses 30% less water.  Do this by adding a 2-kilogram bag of seed to a 20-pound bag of top soil, mix them in a wheelbarrow, and spread across your existing grass.  The ‘seed-to-soil’ contact is what makes this work!
  2. Cleaned using Concrobium House and Deck Wash

    Cleaned using Concrobium House and Deck Wash and Mold Stain Eraser

    Remove the Mold.  As an allergy sufferer, getting rid of the mold that forms in damp, warm weather is extremely important.  Washing the outdoor cushions is only one part of the equation.  Mold can form on decks, furniture, siding and eaves troughs.  I use a two-step process to effectively remove the mold. First I wash away all the surface dirt, grime and mildew with a product called Concrobium House & Deck wash. Not only is it safe around the plants, so I don’t have to cover all my shrubs, it doesn’t contain bleach so it won’t damage the deck. I also have old stains that are deep in the wood so the second step I take is to use Concrobium’s Mold Stain Eraser product that removes just the staining without damaging the wood. I also love that it doesn’t require any scrubbing. Now my siding is spotless, everything made of plastic looks new again and I can finally get rid of those mold spots on my wooden deck.

  3. Wash the Salt.  I never use salt outside my home but it still gets tracked onto the path and driveway from city streets and sidewalks.  Salt damage to plants and grass happens as the snow melts or as rain carries the deposits into the yard.  This build up in the soil can be very damaging and can increase after every winter.  One of the best ways to remove the salt from damaged areas is with a mild vinegar-water solution.  A half teaspoon of white vinegar to one litre of water makes a great rinse for removing salt from concrete or asphalt.  I use a stiff bristle boat mop to make the job quick and easy.
  4. Mulch Late!  Mulching in the spring is very important but most people do it too early.   I’ve always tried to mulch when the snow melts to conserve water by keeping the ground moist.   Unfortunately, this slows growth in my gardens.  Mulch acts as an insulator, protecting the plants from the elements.  However, if you spread it before the soil is completely thawed the mulch keeps the ground colder for longer!  The best time to mulch is when the ground is 5-7 degrees C.  You can measure ground temperatures by completely burying a thermometer in a re-sealable bag.

Our time outside is short in Canada so everyone wants to be outside as much as possible.   My tips will help keep your spaces looking their best all summer long!

Before

Before

After: Using Concrobium Mold Stain Eraser

After: Using Concrobium Mold Stain Eraser

 

About Carson: Carson Arthur started his television career as a behind-the-scenes prop coordinator for a national garden call-in show.  Very quickly, Carson turned an opportunity to host his own show into a landscape design staple.  With international coverage, Carson has become a voice of environmentally friendly landscape design on a global scale.  By addressing outdoor challenges with a keen sense of style and a passion for eco-consciousness, Carson continues to reinvent the definition of gardening.   With his first series, Room To Grow, Carson created inspired outdoor spaces for homeowners and taught a generation of viewers how to increase their own living spaces by expanding outside.  Following on the heels of his first success, Green Force provided Carson with the opportunity to take on some of the largest challenges associated with urban living.  Carson and his team travel throughout a large urban center and tackle some of the most depressing, under-utilized, and forgotten spaces around us turning them into parks and beautiful art installations while using environmentally friendly techniques and products.

 Carson takes pride in where he lives and what he does.  As the spokesperson for RTF WaterSaver Grass seed, PureRain North America, and Black and Decker Canada, Carson has made the most of his television career to date by being active in helping to develop a better understanding of green living within a social context.  When not in the dirt; Carson stays busy building, planting, writing or designing as a featured guest on CityLine, Steven & Chris, and as a contributing writer for Wal-Mart’s upcoming retail magazine.  Look for Carson as the newest guest expert for The Shopping Channel as he roles out amazing new products for the great outdoors in 2013. Carson is also now the outdoor expert for Better Homes and Gardens Dream Team. 

 

 

Recycled Granite Has Lots of Design Possiblities

April 12th, 2013 by Cathy Rust 3 comments »

Granite Scraps, normally sent to landfill

In keeping with my theme of writing about products made from waste material, I was contacted by a company called Green Stone Granite, based in Guelph, Ontario. Green Stone Granite is a new enterprise that takes leftover granite from building jobs and turns it into new products. Dana Laferriere, my contact at Green Stone explained to me that after counters or flooring or tiles have been made from granite, the off-cuts are usually sent to landfill. According to Green Stone’s estimate, 30-40% of granite is “waste”, as in off-cuts and scrap, and is sent directly to landfill. Green Stone has asked local granite manufacturers  (Guelph and surrounding area) to send their scraps to them instead of landfill.

Green Stone Granite’s goal is to become a zero waste facility. Dana said,

We need to get our name out there to educate the public that there are different uses for granite, and now the option for recycled granite. Once we do that and our business grows, we will be able to put the money into achieving a zero waste facility. Currently we are able to re-purpose on average 70% of the granite that comes to our facility. Our goals for the future is to start producing landscaping material with the remainder including aggregate which would bring that to 100%.

Split Stone granite tiles for kitchen

Feature Wall made from split stone granite scrap

Their most popular product is the split stone. It is rough, like any natural stone in its finished form.  The split stone has many applications from kitchen backsplashes, fireplace surrounds to outdoor uses such as pavers and for outdoor kitchens. They also create cutting boards/cheese trays and are in the process of developing granite ice cubes (whiskey stones).

Cost: The cost is comparable to a marble or glass backsplash.

Delivery: They are able to deliver the product to the Toronto area, and are currently speaking with eco building stores about carrying it directly in Toronto.

Installation: Installation is similar to installing traditional tile, however the stones are dry stacked so no grout is required. The benefit to our product is every project is unique and there are endless possibilities of colour combinations.

For more information on Green Stone Granite, visit their website.

Straw Bale SIP Walls by NatureBuilt

April 8th, 2013 by Cathy Rust 1 comment »

Red Rock Waterfront Centre, Red Rock, Ontario

In green building circles it is generally acknowledged that prefab or modular homes are more environmentally friendly than traditional stick built on site homes. Walls are constructed inside a warehouse so the materials aren’t exposed to the elements, which helps keep the materials dry; there is less material waste because excess materials from one job can be used on the next one; There is less waste on site because walls were constructed elsewhere and homes go up faster because they are already partially built.

Straw bale houses are also becoming increasing popular because of their properties of low embodied energy (straw is the waste product from wheat, the “chaff”), combined with excellent insulating properties with R-values ranging anywhere from R-20 to R-50, depending on the thickness of the wall. They are strong, durable, and the majority of the material is biodegradable at end of life.

So now imagine a building made of prefab straw bale houses. These houses combine the insulating and durability advantages of straw bale, with those of prefab, producing less waste and being built in a faster period of time. Here in Canada, staw bale SIPs (structure insulated panels) are being produced by the team at NatureBuilt Walls. The walls were the brain child of  Chris Magwood, who runs the Endeavour Centre in Peterborough, and Ian Weir, who’d taken the green building course at Fleming College. They are now joined by Neeraj Jain, and Ryan McLaughlin, who bring additional specialized strengths to the company.

I had a lot of questions about the walls, so I contacted Neeraj and we talked about these SIP walls and all of their properties. (Note that the interview has been condensed and I am paraphrasing Neeraj’s answers):

Straw Bale SIPs

Straw Bale SIPs being transported to built site

 1. What are the SIPs made of?

The SIPs are made of straw bales, FSC wood for the frame and are covered with an inch of concrete on either side.

2. What is the expected lifespan of the SIPs?

There are straw bale houses in England and the US that are still standing today that are well over 100 years old, so I’d say our homes will also last over 100 years.

3. What is R-value of a Nature Built SIP wall?

We are in the middle of testing the exact R-value of our walls through a research project being carried out at Queen’s University, but we estimate that our R value will be between 35-40.

4. Can they be used for roofing as well?

No, they are too heavy. One 8′x8′ panel weighs about a ton.

5. Given that it’s an organic product, how do you protect against mould, rot and pests?

The straw bales are packed very densely, it’s like having a wall of solid wood, so there are no pockets or cracks for animals to infiltrate. Further, the straw itself has no nutrition value, so pests would not recognize it as a food source.

With respect to water infiltration, like any wood-based product, it’s how you well you seal the straw to protect it from water. Our walls are completely covered with an inch of cement on either side, so it would be hard for water to find a pathway. But, even if water did infiltrate, because the walls are breathable, there is a way for them to dry out so mould and rot won’t start.

Exterior Walls, Straw Bale SIPs.

 

Interior walls, Pickering Project

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. Is the straw used for the SIPs waste straw or is it grown for this purpose?

No, the straw used is the leftover stalks from wheat production. Straw is primarily used as bedding materials for animals, so it is generally considered a waste material.  Also, by putting it inside walls, it is another way to capture and store carbon.

7. Which type of windows and doors (brand and/or material) are best to use with your walls? Or does it matter?

It doesn’t matter which type of windows and doors are used. After quite a bit of experimenting we now design our panels around the openings, instead of cutting openings within the panels themselves. So, for instance, we will make two panels that will stop four feet apart, and the opening will be where the door will go. To fill the area above the door frame, we can do a variety of things such as add straw bales on site, or use different insulations such as Roxul mineral wool. There are a lot of options. We also build long narrow panels that can be used along the bottom of the house, then windows can be built in resting on top of the panel.

Construction of timber frame home

Straw Bale SIPs used in Timber Frame home

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8. Does the wall provide any type of thermal mass for the building?

Absolutely. As I mentioned, these walls are incredibly heavy. They are also about 16″ thick when cement is applied to both sides, so there is a lot of thermal mass there to help regulate a building’s internal temperature.

9. Can you custom spec the walls or do they come in just one size? What is the largest wall that can be specified? Can you stack them for two stories?

Right now our only consistent requirements are height and depth. Walls are usually 8′ or 9.5′ high and the depth is always 16″. Lengths can vary depending on the design, however, because the walls are transported to the site on a flatbed truck, we like to limit the wall length to about 10′.  Our residential designs can be up to three stories high. To build higher structures, the skeleton needs to be built in steel.

10. How thick is the final wall when it’s completed?

The wall is 16″ thick which consists of an inch of concrete on either side of an interior filling of 14″ thick straw bales.

11. How do you install wiring and plumbing behind the wall or is it best done through interior walls?

We don’t install plumbing on exterior walls, but we can make conduits for electrical wiring on the exterior walls. While it’s easier when we have the electrical plans when we’re building the walls, we can also add the conduits for the wires after the walls have been constructed.

12. Do you plaster directly over the walls, or do you apply studs and drywall? 

The wall is as it is. It can be finished further, if desired, but it’s not necessary. The trick with these walls, especially on the exterior is covering the seams. One of my favourite examples of how this was done well, was our project in Red Rock, Ontario, near Thunder Bay. The architect who designed the building incorporated some architectural trim that was simple, cost effective and also covered the seams.

On the inside of the house it’s not usually much of an issue because the seams tend to line up where the rooms divide. Even if the seams are exposed, as in one of our projects, drywall can be applied directly onto the cement using drywall mud. No studs are necessary.

13. What kind of paint can be used on a Nature Built wall, which I assume is a breathable wall.

A silicate based mineral paint needs to be used on these walls particularly on the outside. Our advisor, Chris Magwood, figures it’s not too important to keep the walls breathable on the interior of the house, but it’s essential to stop mould growth and rot, to keep the building breathable on the outside in order for it to dry out.  We can actually apply the paint in the factory so it’s already done by the time it gets to the site.

14. Can you please define a “breathable” wall for our readers?

A breathable wall is one that has no vapour barrier. Let’s say that water is traveling down a wall, even without the actual water infiltrating the wall, the water vapour can. If there is no way for the water to get out, it will eventually produce mould. A breathable wall such as ours, allows for water vapour to evaporate and keep the interior walls dry.

15. What is the cost of your system vs. a traditional stick-built house and a standard modular house.
We have numbers from the Toronto Real Estate Board that estimate it costs approximately $25-26 per square foot to build an average stick-built home. We can build our homes for about $18-20 per square foot, so we are definitely cost competitive.
16. Do you do the design, or do you have architects you work with?
We don’t offer design services, however, we can refer an interested client to architects, designers and architectural technologists who have experience with our material.
17. How long does it take to build the walls once the design is finalized?
A typical home’s panels can be manufactured in about 4-6 weeks depending on the size of the home.  Normally we start production to coincide with the foundation being ready.  This way, as soon as the foundation is ready, we come in and install the wall panels.  One floor of panels can be installed in less than a day.  After they are installed, the interior framing is done and if there is a second story, the floor is put in.  As soon as the floor is ready we come back and install the 2nd floor panels in less than a day. 
         The Killaby project was very interesting.  As we installed our panels, the builders crew did the necessary framing.  We were able to install the 2nd floor the very next day!  Imagine how much money is saved by getting the project done so quickly.
For more information on NatureBuilt Straw Bale walls, visit their website.

March 22nd is World Water Day

March 22nd, 2013 by Cathy Rust No comments »

Since 1993, March 22nd has been World Water Day as designated by the United Nations. The day is marked to help raise awareness about the basic human right we all share to access safe drinking water. Here in Canada it is also Canada Water Week, (March 14-22, 2013) developed to incorporate World Water Day.  The point of these days is to highlight the right to every person’s access to safe drinking water. 

This year’s focus is water cooperation. Around the world, there are 276 transboundary river basins. Actions taken by any country regarding water use can affect downstream water flow and quality. Cooperation is essential among nations to ensure peace and the best water management. The UN has a page of facts concerning water consumption and the effect of increasing populations and climate change. It’s pretty scary, but can be managed if approached in a coordinated, rational manner (Source).

World Water Day’s objective is to highlight water concerns around the world. While we Canadians count ourselves lucky to have an abundant supply of fresh water, we should probably stop short of patting ourselves on the back. Crumbling urban infrastructure means that many cities are having difficulty dealing with sewage and water treatment. Further, a report by the Federation of Canadian Municipalities has estimated that it will cost about $80 billion to replace waste water treatment plants and pipes, drinking water delivery pipes and storm water pipes that are in “fair” to “very poor” condition across Canada (Source).

Canadians are the second biggest water users per capita of all OECD countries (Source). To make matters worse, many OECD countries have been decreasing their water consumption per capita (including the US), while, since 1980, Canadians have increased water consumption by 25%.  Part of the reason that Canadians are water hogs is because a realistic price hasn’t been attached to the water we use. In many municipalities a flat rate is charged, which, of course, doesn’t lead to conservation behaviour. If you view something as a low-value resource, then you will treat it as such. Leaks will go unfixed, faucets will be left on to brush teeth and do dishes, there is no incentive to buy water efficient appliances. Moreover, if there isn’t an effort by city hall to raise awareness of the importance of water conservation through public policy, people won’t see it as an issue of concern.

As Canadian cities’ populations increase, the need for potable water will also increase. Demands on cities’ water infrastructure will be tested to their maximum, which is why implementing water conservation measures is more urgent than most people realize. Water conservation at business, institutional and residential levels will give municipalities some time to upgrade their water infrastructure and pricing water fairly is the easiest way to motivate people to think about conservation.

I’ve written many articles on products that will help you conserve water. I’ve written about low-flow fixtures, rain barrels,  and gray water systems. Look in the Water Efficiency section of the Resource Guide for products and information on water efficiency. But there are other ways to cut water use that you might not even consider, and, in fact, you can make an even bigger dent in water conservation by altering a few of your weekly purchases. The infographic comes thanks to Loch Ness Water Gardens in South Carolina. Some of the stats are surprising. You might have already been aware that beef production uses the most water of any meat production (1850 gallons (US) to produce 1 pound of beef), but did you know that your morning coffee needs 2500 gallons of water? It only takes 8 gallons of water to produce a pound of tea. The infographic also gives you suggestions on how modifying your behaviour will help you save water, such as switching out your high flow shower head to a low flow fixture, or switching from drinking milk to beer (?) — great excuse for the legal-aged drinkers in the crowd, but maybe not so helpful for the kids (I can hear my teenagers now: “But mom, it’s better for the environment”).

Water Usage Infographic

Courtesy of: Loch Ness Water Gardens

 

Sheep’s Wool Insulation in Batts and Loose Fill

March 14th, 2013 by Cathy Rust No comments »

One of the products I’ve been keeping my eye on is an insulation that is made from wool remnants from sheep sheering. I’d first seen it on Building Green where Alex Wilson has written about it, but because I couldn’t find anyone who sold it in Ontario or Quebec I hadn’t mentioned it. But lo and behold, when I was in Kingston at Living Rooms, John Sinclair told me they were now supplying not just one brand of wool insulation, but two! Sheep’s wool insulation fits in with my waste theme this year. It’s a product made from material that is otherwise considered to be waste — remnants that aren’t high enough quality for use in sweaters, carpets or blankets. It is renewable, recyclable, durable and biodegradable. Some of the advantages of wool insulation are:

  • It is a hygroscopic, or water loving, material. The insulation can absorb up to 40% its weight in water and still not feel wet to the touch and eliminating condensation in interior spaces filled with the insulation. This action in turn, prevents mould growth and/or rot.
  • Wool is an excellent acoustic insulation.
  • Memory. Wool maintains its shape and therefore its R value over time.  Because of the natural kink in the fibre, when fibres are side by side tiny air pockets are created which prevent heat from travelling across the insulation.
  • Flame resistant.
  • Treated with borate, it is also pest resistant.

The two brands that Living Rooms carries are:

1. Oregon Shepherd Natural Wool Insulation:This product is excellent for attics and underfloor insulation, wherever loose fill insulation is required. It has an R value of around 3.6/inch. Installation: Although it can be installed by hand, using a blower will allow for maximum effectiveness of the insulation, particularly since it arrives tightly packed in plastic bags. John mentioned that they prefer the FibreForce blower by Intec for the best application.

Oregon Shepherd Sheep's Wool Insulation, loose fill

 

Oregon Shepherd Loose Fill Insulation, Wall Cavity Installation (netting applied across studs)

Cost: $4.45/lb, although discount pricing may be available for volume orders. It’s best to call to confirm prices. (Prices are at time of writing, March, 2013.)

Certifications: The loose-fill insulation has the following certifications:

ASTM C 518 for R-value
ASTM E 84-09 (also covers UL 723, UBC 8-1, and NFPA 255), giving it a Class A Fire Rating
These are all American ratings. This material does not have Canadian standards testing ratings. As such, it is not recognized by the Canadian Building Code, despite the fact that the testing is conducted by the same labs as in the USA. In order to get around this, the material must be officially approved by either an architect or an engineer.
(Above photos courtesy of Oregon Shepherd.)
Black Mountain Natural Insulation: Wool batts are available in two thicknesses: 3.5 inches and 5.5 inches widths made for 2×4 and 2×6 construction. R-value – 3.5-4/inch.
Black Mountain Sheeps Wool Insulation

Black Mountain Sheep's Wool Insulation, available in batts

Contents: 92% sheep’s wool + 4% polyester binder made from recycled polyester (for maintaining shape — polyester made from recycled material) + 4% borax salt. Can be recycled, incinerated for additional energy, or composted to biodegrade.

Cost: $1.88/sqft for the 3.5″ thick batts and $2.55/sqft for the 5.25″ thick batts. Again, best to call for a quote. (Note: current pricing as of March, 2013.)

Certifications: ASTM E-84 + UL 723 (Class A Fire Rating), ASTM C1388 (Fungi Resistance), ASTM C518 (R-Value). All these ratings are American. Coming from the UK, these batts also have the appropriate EU standards testing ratings. These batts do not have Canadian standards testing ratings. As such, they are not recognized by the Canadian Building Code, despite the fact that the testing is conducted by the same labs as in the USA, and the EU standards are actually higher than the Canadian. In order to get around this, the material must be officially approved by either an architect or an engineer.
Methane Production: Both companies indicate that it takes about one tenth the energy to process their insulation than it does to produce a petroleum-based insulation. I was wondering if that amount took into account the methane produced during the growth phase of the wool or during the lifespan of the sheep. Methane although less abundant than CO2 is a more potent greenhouse gas. In addition to produced from decomposing food and organic waste, it is also produced by animals, cows and sheep in particular. I contacted Margaret Magruder from Oregon Shepherd  and Andrew Ryan from Black Mountain to ask them about methane production.
Margaret wrote to me that the energy production figure (1/10) refers strictly to the amount of energy used in production of the insulation in the factory versus petroleum-based insulations.
Andrew had a more detailed answer regarding the energy calculation, which I’ve posted below. It’s important to note that when it comes to calculating energy balances and carbon footprints, European countries are leaps and bounds ahead of most North American companies. Consumers are also more vastly aware of the consequences of their buying decisions, so they ask these types of questions regularly. Basically, what all this means is that my question about methane production has already been asked many times to the Black Mountain Insulation staff. Here is Andrew’s answer:

We are often asked about the methane from sheep, the answer lies in why sheep are farmed?  They are farmed for the livestock industry and not the wool, the economies of wool don’t even cover the cost of shearing the sheep.  Hence in an LCA [lifecycle analysis] the economic allocation is such that wool is a by production not THE product.

We have worked with a number of persons on LCAs which are not published publically at this point in time, however the foot print for wool is very low indeed. The shipping carbon cost to Canada or the USA is also low since the road miles from us to the docks are low and the carbon foot print of a container ship is also low. Sheep wool in fact locks up carbon dioxide in the growth phase and hence starts carbon negative, which compared to the man made alternatives is a distinct advantage.

 

Allback Paints Made From Pure Organic Linseed Oil and 100% Petroleum Free

March 1st, 2013 by Cathy Rust No comments »

It seems that whenever you find one “new” product, others come out of the woodwork soon after. In this case I’m referring to the plant-based paint brand, Green Planet Paints, which I wrote about in December. You see, now that paint companies have tackled the problem of paints emitting volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air with their low, ultra-low and zero VOC lines, the more obvious problem is that paints not only use a significant amount of energy to be made, they are a petroleum-based product and contain an awful lot of other highly toxic chemicals. Enter paints that made from plant-based and mineral materials, and suddenly you’ve got some real alternatives to traditional paints.

When I was in Kingston, Ontario touring Living Rooms, John Sinclair introduced me to a few new-to-me brands of paint which are petroleum free made from plants and minerals. These paints can be a little trickier to use. They have longer drying times, which means professional painters may not be too keen on using them as they can only apply one coat per day. If the job is big enough, or if they have enough jobs that are geographically close together, it may not be an issue, but it is something to consider.

Allbäck paint comes from Sweden and made from  pure organic linseed oil. The company sources all of its linseed oil from locally grown (in Sweden) flax. One of the remarkable things about this paint is that it is extremely durable. Allbäck claims that it will last for 50 years. For maintenance purposes, the company suggests that once every 10 to 15 years the paint be renewed with an application of linseed oil or linseed oil wax to restore the colour.

The paint can be used on almost any surface including wood, plastic, metal. To use on drywall and plaster, a sealant such as pure shellac needs to be applied first.  (Note: pure shellac is a natural ingredient excreted by the Lac bug, which is found in India and Thailand.) Normally, the resulting shellac flakes are dissolved in ethyl alcohol to form a liquid which can be applied to a variety of surfaces. Allbäck has developed a method to suspend the shellac flakes in water so there is no off-gassing of alcohol.

Allbäck Pure Organic Linseed Oil paint. It is available in 32 premixed colours, which tend to go along historic colour lines. This paint can be applied to just about anything from wood to plastic to masonry. It can be diluted with linseed oil to apply it as a stain, or with water for use on masonry. John explained to me that adding 30% water for masonry applications helps the masonry absorb the paint better. The paint dries to a low-gloss finish, which is especially nice on woodwork. He noted that there are no visible brush strokes after the paint has dried.

Linus is a wall paint that dries to a flat finish and is available in 13 pastel colours and black. A flat finish for walls is great for hiding imperfections, however, with low quality paints a flat finish is often not scrubbable, but John says this paint is very durable, and like the Pure Organic Linseed Oil line, also lasts 50 years. In addition to linseed oil and earth pigments, Linus also contains cellulose which acts as a binder and creates a nice texture on the wall. This is ideal for walls that tend to crack as the cellulose can prevent the cracks from occurring. One of the other characteristics about this paint is that it is considered “fire safe” — which means no toxic chemicals are emitted if a room should ever catch on fire.

Application: Contrary to modern petroleum-based paints, layers should be applied as thinly as possible. The linseed oil will penetrate porous surfaces such as wood so surfaces should be properly prepped before use. The advantages of penetrating a surface, such as wood, means that the paint won’t chip or peel off in the future.  On old wood, old paint and any rotten wood or mould and mildew should be removed before this paint is applied.  While a natural bristle brush is recommended for use with this paint, John also sent over a link of a fellow who applies it to woodwork using a microfibre pad; even a rag will work for application.

http://stylewithabrush.com/2012/11/28/cabinetry-painted-with-allback-using-a-micro-fiber-pad/

The paint usually needs two layers for full coverage, even if applying white over a dark colour. No primer is needed and paint can be applied directly to new wood surfaces that have not been treated. (Again, a sealant needs to be applied for porous surfaces.)

Coverage: While the website notes that surface coverage is approximately 600 square feet per gallon, which can be up to twice as much as a standard paint. However, it’s important to note that coverage varies depending on which surface you are applying it to and whether you are diluting it with water or linseed oil. John told me he thinks the company’s coverage estimate is conservative. It tends to cover more on surfaces that don’t absorb the paint, such as metal, plastic and sealed drywall and plaster, so coverage is greater than 600 square feet /gallon.

Cost: While the paint is on the pricey side, it’s important to note that along with it comes long-lasting durability and better coverage. The paint is sold in litres, not in gallons and comes premixed. These prices below are taken from Living Rooms website and are for the pure organic linseed oil paint only. At the moment they don’t carry the Linus line, but they are planning on carrying it and the new pure shellac sealant in the future.

200 ml: $16.50  (Tester size or for painting a small object)

1 litre: $53.o0

3litre: $153.00

Available through Livng Rooms in Kingston, or direct from Allback’s Canadian and American websites:

www.solventfreepaint.ca

www.solventfreepaint.com

 

 

 

 

A Visit to Living Rooms — A Healthy Home Store in Kingston, Ontario

February 21st, 2013 by Cathy Rust 2 comments »

 

On yet another monotonous drive down the 401 (thank goodness for audiobooks!) from Montreal to Toronto, I broke up the trip with a stop in Kingston. Living Rooms, owned by two brothers, John and Michael Sinclair, is a mixture of healthy lifestyle products and green building materials.

The brothers  had started their professional lives as painters. But the more they interacted both with the paint and with clients who were becoming concerned about what they were putting on their wall and breathing in the air, the more research the brothers did, the more they sought out alternatives to traditional paints. They started searching for paints that were less toxic to human health with little to no off-gassing of toxic chemicals. Fast forward to the present and low and zero VOC paints are so yesterday. You won’t find any petroleum-based paints in their store, rather, they’ve sourced some really interesting alternatives.

When they began developing their store concept, they worked not on the philosophy of supplying green building products, but rather, they source products while living by standards developed by Bau-Biologie and Permaculture. Bau-Biologie was developed in Germany and is all about creating a healthy indoor environment. The movement focuses on using building materials and home products that don’t off-gas toxic chemicals. Permaculture (which I have written about before), recognizes that all biological systems are closed so that one living thing’s waste product is another’s food source. To that end, on their website they note that their store is not so much about green building materials as it is about sourcing products that are low impact, responsibly-made and better for your health as well as that of the planet’s. In other words, they stay away from a lot of what might be considered electronic green gadgets. The kind of items they stock focus on healthy sleeping, healthy eating and fresh interior air.

Building products: In addition to paints, there are several other better building products to choose from. To name a few that I’ve already written about, there is American Clay, Log’s End flooring (timber salvaged from the bottom of the Ottawa River), IceStone, PaperStone, (for counter tops) Nature’s Carpet (100% wool carpet), Safecoat paints and sealers, Ultratouch cotton insulation….

BUT, they also introduced me to a few new and intriguing products such as insulation made from leftover sheep’s wool, paint made from linseed oil, an intriguing exterior stucco-like product that’s made in Fredericton, New Brunswick, and a new concept: modular built strawbale homes. I’ll discuss each of these products in future posts.

Because they are located in a building which also has artisans and trades, they can also set you up with cabinetmakers and contractors who will take care of any building project work you want done in the Kingston area. Their objective is to source better building and living products as locally as possible and to use local trades and craftsmen to complete their customers’ projects.

Lifestyle products: Another aspect of this store that is the selection of lifestyle products they offer. When John took me around the store he was most enthusiastic about Xtrema, the ceramic cookware and baking line they’ve brought in. He explained that the problem with ceramic cookware in the past has been that it can’t be used over direct heat or it will crack. The manufacturers of this line have solved that problem and Xtrema cookware can be used directly over gas or electric elements (However, it can’t be used with induction cooktops, which use a magnetic pull between cookware and energy source). The cookware is also reasonably priced compared with high-end stainless steel pots and pans. A 24 piece set sells for $530.

Also within the kitchen category, there were tea and coffee makers, and my personal favourite was Presso, a manual espresso maker — perfect for cottage living (although you still have to heat the water).

There are plenty of products that focus on sleep as well. A buckwheat pillow by Eco et Eco, is as local a product as you can get. Except for growing the cotton, all parts of the pillow are made in Quebec. Apparently, buckwheat is a great material for people who sweat a lot around the head and neck area at night as the buckwheat wicks away moisture and heat and allows the sleeper a more even body temperature.

Other bath and sleep products include organic cotton towels, mattresses and mattress pads, and duvets.

In the household cleaning category, Living Rooms carries natural coco scrub pads, natural luffa sponges and soap nuts. Soap nuts look a bit like acorns and are the fruit (called a drupe) of the Sapindus genus of bushes and trees, which grow in tropical climates. The drupe produces a natural soap substance that can be used as a laundry soap. Soapnuts are very versatile and can also be used to make household cleaners, shampoo and even toothpaste! Usually soapnuts can be reused four or five times before they lose there effectiveness. At end of life, they can be composted.

To explore the products they offer on line, visit their website.

If you’re in Kingston or surrounding area,  Living Rooms is located at:

12 Cataraqui Street
Kingston, ON
K7K 1Z7

613.766.6821

info@livingrooms.ws

Regular Store Hours
Monday 10am – 5pm
Tuesday 10am – 5pm
Wednesday 10am – 5pm
Thursday 10am – 5pm
Friday 10am – 5pm
Saturday 10am – 5pm
Sunday Closed
Or by appointment.

 

 

 

CarbonCure Technology Sequesters Carbon Dioxide in Concrete

January 31st, 2013 by Cathy Rust No comments »

Every year at GreenBuild (the US green building conference and expo), green building guru Alex Wilson reveals his top ten favourite new green products. These products are carefully thought out and vetted, and are considered the best of the best. If you’re not familiar with the BuildingGreen website, take some time to look around — it is the authoritative source for green building materials and services for professionals involved in the green building sector. This year, one of the products that made his list was CarbonCure, which is a technology developed by a Canadian company, based in Nova Scotia. CarbonCure seeks to solve the problem of the greenhouse gas emissions produced during concrete production.

The manufacturing of concrete is the second most energy and CO2 intensive industry in the world. It is only topped by the emissions output of power generation, particularly from plants that burn coal and gas for power production. Since concrete is a key material in the building sector and will likely remain so in the near future, aspiring to reduce its overall carbon dioxide footprint is an essential strategy for lowering global carbon emissions. According to the CarbonCure website, the reason that concrete is such a carbon dioxide intensive product is partly due to the high kiln temperatures needed to make cement (the key ingredient in concrete), and partly due to ”liberating the CO2 from its chemically stable form as CaCO3(limestone)” during the cement making process.

The technology developed by CarbonCure captures carbon dioxide emitted by heavy sources and adds it back into concrete, where a chemical reaction converts the CO2 into limestone. One of the side benefits of adding carbon dioxide (CO2) to concrete is that it makes the concrete stronger, enabling manufacturers to use less cement, the most CO2-intensive part of concrete production.

I had several questions about the technology, so I contacted Jennifer Wagner, Vice President of Marketing for CarbonCure.

On their website I read that for every tonne of cement produced about 0.8 tonnes of CO2 are emitted into the atmosphere. Their website notes that Atlas Block, a concrete manufacturer in Ontario, is able to sequester 50 grams of CO2 per concrete block. Jennifer noted that the percentage of CO2 sequestered varies depending on the concrete manufacturing plant that’s using it. Plants have different equipment, raw materials, and processes, so the potential CO2 reduction can differ from plant to plant. One of the operations using their technology has reduced its CO2 emissions by 20%. Their eventual goal is to produce carbon-neutral oreven carbon negative concrete. In other words, concrete production would sequester more CO2 than is emitted. While they are not close to that number yet, just having that goal is encouraging.

Jennifer pointed out that over time concrete naturally sequesters CO2 but only the exposed surfaces of concrete absorbs the CO2. Their technology mixes concrete with CO2 while it’s still in its looseform (its texture is similar to a sandcastle) in order to maximize the absorption of CO2. Further, calcium carbonate increases the strength of the concrete and permits the use of less cement.

Carbon dioxide is collected from the nearest CO2 emitting plant to keep transportation emissions and costs down. When CarbonCure calculates the carbon footprint sequestration of their product, they do take into account the amount of emissions produced in the production of cement, as well as the transportation emissions to get the CO2 to the cement plant.

The technology is constantly improving. Right now they are working on developing it for ready mix concrete – that’s the concrete used to pour sidewalks and foundations. That means the machinery would have to be portable and attach to concrete mixing trucks. It’s an important area on which to focus because the majority of concrete produced is ready mix concrete, so solving that problem would significantly increase the potential greenhouse gas reductions of the technology.

CarbonCure is currently working with three concrete producers, a local Nova Scotian company (Shaw Group), an Ontario company (Atlas Block), and a company in California (Basalite Concrete Products). Atlas Block currently offers three products that include sequestered carbon: concrete blocks, pavers and segmented retaining walls (SRWs). Currently, each concrete block contains 50 grams of sequestered CO2.

Cost: according to the website, the up-charge of using their technology should be minimal because less cement is needed to make concrete which offsets the cost of adding the technology.

CarbonCure presents a new and exciting technology in the process of reducing carbon dioxide emissions from concrete. If the technology continues to progress towards making carbon neutral or carbon negative concrete a reality, it could become a significant factor in reducingoverall CO2 emissions from the building sector.

 

Semi Rigid Cork Insulation

January 23rd, 2013 by Cathy Rust No comments »

I have decided that this year’s theme for building materials will be waste. Specifically, I will feature products made from waste material, products that produce little waste during manufacture, products that include recycled material and products that can be recycled at end of life. Of course, it goes without saying that first and foremost it has to be a functional and useful product.

In that vein, one product from Alex Wilson’s top ten list of green building products, 2013 is semi rigid cork insulation produced by Amorim, a Portuguese company. Amorim also happens to be a partner of Jelinek Cork, a Canadian company who distributes this product in Canada. I’ve written about Jelinek Cork before and many of the products they produce.

Cork is a fantastic building material. Not only is it a rapidly renewable material (the cork trees’ bark can be harvested every 9 years), it is highly resilient, a great sound dampener, a natural flame retarder and has a multitude of uses from floors to fabric to insulation.

Semi-Rigid Cork Insulation also meets all the criteria I described in my waste theme this year. This semi-rigid insulation is made from cork granules that are a by-product, or waste product, from the process of wine bottle cork making. The granules are treated with steam which expands the cork. The steam also activates the cork’s natural binder, suberin, which binds the expanded granules together. No other binder, glue or adhesive is necessary. At end of life, these cork boards are biodegradable, meaning zero waste to landfill.

Semi rigid cork insulation has an R value of 3.6/inch. There is a variety of uses for this cork, although it was developed primarily as an insulation material. It can also be used as a bulletin board to cover an entire wall, or for recording studios and other areas where dampening sound is important. It comes in packages of 1′x3′ sheets in thicknesses ranging from 0.5″ – 4″.

You can visit Jelinek’s website to find out more about Amorim semi rigid expanded cork board, as well as to buy it.

 

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